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Adam Kuban, founder of Slice, and leading authority on all things pizza in NYC, really, really loves the 'St. Louie' pie at Clinton Hill's Speedy Romeo. Photo by Adam Kuban.

Adam Kuban, founder of Serious Eats’ spinoff Slice, and New York City’s leading authority on pizza haute and low, likes the pies coming out of the wood-fired oven at Clinton Hill’s new-ish Speedy Romeo. A lot.

Of Speedy’s St. Louis-style pizza, which features provel ‘cheese,’ a tangy, smoky, umami-bomb made with a mix of Swiss, provolone, cheddar and smoke, Kuban says, “I’m still thinking about it, craving it, scheming to re-create it at home days after eating it.” And although spring has just begun, he’s confidently calling it a lock for his 2012 ‘great eight’ – his year-end list of the eight best pies of the year.

Here’s the full review on Slice.

Speedy Romeo was opened in February by college buddies Justin Bazdarich, a veteran of the lines at Jean Georges, Perry Street, and Roman’s in Fort Greene, and Todd Feldman on the corner of Classon and Greene in Clinton Hill. And they don’t just do pizza. They work their wood-oven magic across an array of tenderloin, strips, ribs and chops.

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