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Sam Sifton reviews Brooklyn culinary bastion Roberta's, and awards them two stars.

Sam Sifton, food poet, er…critic at The New York Times, has delivered a gift many of us have been waiting for for three long years — his ode to, er…review of Roberta’s, Bushwick’s famed and fortified epicenter of the Brooklyn food scene.

Of chef Carlo, Sifton sings: “Mr. Mirarchi’s is a kitchen poetry that is much, much more difficult to create than it seems. His food often looks austere. Its flavors just as often explode in your mouth…Some delicacies from his laboratory…are among the craziest and most delicious in the city.”

Of a few of his favorite creations from Carlo’s kitchen: “They are delicate of flavor, free of excess fats or salts, as pure an expression of new American cuisine as you are likely to find anywhere. It is shocking, and wonderful, to eat them in this cinder-block garage space six stops into Brooklyn on the L, a ratty old ski lodge built for bums interested in food rather than powder.”

And there’s so much more! Sit back, fasten your seatbelt, and enjoy the ride: Sam Sifton’s reviews Roberta’s.

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