by Clay Williams
More than most, Josh and Jessica Applestone, the owners of Fleisher’s Grass-Fed & Organic Meats, have changed the way we eat, cook and think about meat. When they opened their original shop in Kingston, New York, they made the decision to work only with whole animals, pasture-raised on local farms, by people they knew personally. This triggered a sea change in the culinary landscape, as restaurants like Gramercy Tavern, Casa Mono and Diner began offering cuts of meat unseen on restaurant menus for generations, and offal began to get its moment in the sun.
Late last year, the Applestones returned to their Brooklyn roots and opened a Fleisher’s branch in Park Slope. As a long-time fan of their work proselytizing the virtues of whole animal butchery, I stopped in several times over the holidays to photograph them at work.
Clay Williams is a Brooklyn-based photographer and blogger known online as UltraClay. His photos have appeared in The New York Times, Bon Appetit, Edible Manhattan and Midtown Lunch. His current project, Food/Work explores the love and labor that goes into the food we eat.